The style of embroidery varies a lot from one place to another. The few styles that I have included in this section are kantha, kathi, applique, phulkari and aribharat.

Kantha:

The word Kantha freely translated means patchwork embroidery. This type of embroidery is done exclusively by Bengali women in their homes. In this style of embroidery, the thread is carried over the surface in small stitches to produce a series of dotted lines. To these are added, from the reverse side, longer floats which are mostly used as decorative elements and for filling in the bodies of the figures. The surface of the material is densely covered with stitching, turning these remnants into a completely new, relatively thick and sturdy article.

A Sample of Kantha Art

This rural art of Gujarat is attributed to the nomadic tribes of the kathi. The work is distinguished by a very unusual technique in which chain stitch embroidery is combined with applique work enhanced by small mirror-like insertions. The embroidery is characterised in particular by its wealth of forms and motifs which may possibly be derived from the pictoral repertory of harappan art. Many of the Kathi embroideries betray a certain measure of Hindu influence. For instance, when they portray Ganesha or Krishna playing the flute. Kathi embroidery constitutes one of the most important contributions made by Indian women to rural folk art.

A Sample of Kathi

Applique is an integral part of the decorative needlework of Gujarat. However, it is distinctive with a style of it's own. It is based on patchwork in which pieces of coloured and patterned fabric is finely cut in different sizes and shapes and sewn together on a plain background to form a composite piece. It is therefore done only on items of household use. They are in brilliant colours and highly ornamented with motifs. The whole charm of an applique lies in the contours of each individual inset piece.

A Sample of Applique

Phulkari:

The Punjab phulkari is of a spectacular nature. The word means flowering and it creates a flowery surface. Strangely enough, the stitch itself is the simple darning like the damask, done either by counting the threads or with utmost care, since a single miss can spoil the whole pattern. Originally, the designs seem to have been predominantly geometrical but the phulkari now being produced for sale has often a lotus in the centre and stylised animals, birds, worked in harmoniously with flowers. Stitching is usually done with silk thread, though occasionally cotton threads are also used. The best work in phulkari is found in Gurgaon, Karnal, Hissar, Rohtak and around Delhi.

A Sample of Phulkari

The embroidery of Kutch is very picturesque and has the quality of jewellery. The best known is aribharat, which is named after ari, a hook, plied from the top but fed by silk thread from below with the material spread out on a frame. This movement creates loops, and repeats of these lead to a line of chain stitches. It is also known as Mochibharat, as it used to be done by mochis (cobblers).

A Sample of Aribharat